Due to the recreation of the forum by back up my post from the end of last week has disappeared, so here follows a summary in the hope it helps others.
At the end of last week I returned to my ZTT KV6 to find that it wouldn't start. Plenty of cranking, but no firing.
As an AA member I used their services, and between the patrol mans knowledge and what I had picked up on this forum, the fault was quickly diagnosed as the fuel filter / regulator assembly having partially unscrewed. This causes loss of pressure in the fuel system and hence failure to start.
The fault was fixed by the roadside in approx 30 minutes and I was on my way home. The main problem with a roadside fix is that AA rules say the tank must be half full or less to avoid fuel spillage.
Anyway, the AA had to use the old hammer and chisel routine to loosen the locking ring and re-tighten it as no special tool was available on the van. This meant it was only classed as a temporary repair, and I was advised to get it overchecked and retightened by a dealer.
Having seen how easy the job was I thought I would do it myself instead, and also see if I could better lock the two halves of the assembly together.
So I tackled the job on Saturday, and here is the lowdown for anyone with the same problem:-
* Just remember that we are talking about dealing with an open topped fuel tank inside a car here, so no naked lights / sparks / power tools and loads of ventilation, plus avoidance of spillage *
1) Remove the rear seat squab (Pull the front upwards to unclip then push backwards to release at rear. It will probably require a grovel underneath the raised squab to help release the rear.)
2) Remove the body cover plate over the filter / regulator assembly (That is the access plate on the left hand side behind the passenger seat [UK]. The access plate on the right hand [UK driver] side covers the similar installation for the fuel pump.)
3) Release any trapped pressure in the fuel system by depressing the schrader valve (under a trendy coloured dust cap by the throttle body under the bonnet)
4) Detach the push fit fuel pipe by pushing in the green retainer clip and tie back out of the way.
5) Make up a simple metal tool to remove the locking ring, and detach it. (mine was actually made from a couple of stainless steel wall ties bolted together, but whatever you use, it must be capable of the 38Nm installation torque)
6) Partially remove the filter regulator assembly, and twist both halves firmly back together (The joint is immediately above the stainless steel reinforcing band)
7) Reassemble by reversing the process, and ensuring that the seal between the tank and assembly is correctly installed and the locking ring torqued to 38Nm.
I have tried to prevent further occurence of the fault by pinning the joint in place with a couple of self tappers, but only time will tell if it works...
Anyway, it's not a bad job at all if you are mechanically minded and have the basics such as torque wrench and socket set.
At the end of last week I returned to my ZTT KV6 to find that it wouldn't start. Plenty of cranking, but no firing.
As an AA member I used their services, and between the patrol mans knowledge and what I had picked up on this forum, the fault was quickly diagnosed as the fuel filter / regulator assembly having partially unscrewed. This causes loss of pressure in the fuel system and hence failure to start.
The fault was fixed by the roadside in approx 30 minutes and I was on my way home. The main problem with a roadside fix is that AA rules say the tank must be half full or less to avoid fuel spillage.
Anyway, the AA had to use the old hammer and chisel routine to loosen the locking ring and re-tighten it as no special tool was available on the van. This meant it was only classed as a temporary repair, and I was advised to get it overchecked and retightened by a dealer.
Having seen how easy the job was I thought I would do it myself instead, and also see if I could better lock the two halves of the assembly together.
So I tackled the job on Saturday, and here is the lowdown for anyone with the same problem:-
* Just remember that we are talking about dealing with an open topped fuel tank inside a car here, so no naked lights / sparks / power tools and loads of ventilation, plus avoidance of spillage *
1) Remove the rear seat squab (Pull the front upwards to unclip then push backwards to release at rear. It will probably require a grovel underneath the raised squab to help release the rear.)
2) Remove the body cover plate over the filter / regulator assembly (That is the access plate on the left hand side behind the passenger seat [UK]. The access plate on the right hand [UK driver] side covers the similar installation for the fuel pump.)
3) Release any trapped pressure in the fuel system by depressing the schrader valve (under a trendy coloured dust cap by the throttle body under the bonnet)
4) Detach the push fit fuel pipe by pushing in the green retainer clip and tie back out of the way.
5) Make up a simple metal tool to remove the locking ring, and detach it. (mine was actually made from a couple of stainless steel wall ties bolted together, but whatever you use, it must be capable of the 38Nm installation torque)
6) Partially remove the filter regulator assembly, and twist both halves firmly back together (The joint is immediately above the stainless steel reinforcing band)
7) Reassemble by reversing the process, and ensuring that the seal between the tank and assembly is correctly installed and the locking ring torqued to 38Nm.
I have tried to prevent further occurence of the fault by pinning the joint in place with a couple of self tappers, but only time will tell if it works...
Anyway, it's not a bad job at all if you are mechanically minded and have the basics such as torque wrench and socket set.