New MGTF owner need some advise on my faults

[JimmyCoupe]

Hi Everyone

I'm new to MG TF's but not new to MG rovers, I currently have a MG ZS 180 and have been a member on here for a while now but my other half has just recently become a very proud owner of a lovely MG TF 135 03 in bright red. It is a beautiful low mileage example but we did get it at a nice price due to a couple of very minor faults that I am having trouble finding the cause. If anyone can advise on any of the cars faults we would be very grateful.

1) Boot light is always on saying that the boot is open
2) Should the spare wheel in the front have a standard spacer like my MG ZS to fix it to the car or does it have a MG TF special spacer?
3) Very rare but sometimes the key won't turn in the ignition like the steering lock is still on even though the steer wheel can be turned, odd (found this fault after buying it)
4) What are the main faults to look for/ look out for with a MG TF 135?
5) When is the cambelt due, normally 60,000 on a rover a part from the V6 but the car is now 6-7 years old and has done 29,000 miles.
6) Condensation on the front head lights, is this normal? if not how can I stop it?

Many thanks and lots of happy sunny MG TF days :-).

[Steve White]

1) I would try adjusting the boot lid on the rubber stops either side of the boot lid first. If that doesnt work then i could be a fault with the microswitch within the boot catch.

2) Most TF's came without a spare at all, but had a can of tyre sealant and a pump in the spare wheel well instead. A full size alloy spare was available as an extra, and they are normally painted black or orange. You must remember that the TF has different sized tyres on the front and rear, as well as having directional tyres, which means you will still be limited speed wise when fitting the spare on 3 out of the 4 corners. MGF's cam with a steel 14" 'space saver' spare, but these wont fit over the larger front brakes of TF's with the red AP brake callipers.

3) pass

4) Cooling system has to be top of the fault list. Check the expansion tank level regularly. If the level drop get it checked out ASAP. If there is coolant around the cap then there is a good chance the capo has failed, so replace it. I change mine every year as a precaution.
Also check the dipstick and expansion tank cap for emulsification.
A low coolant level alarm is highly recommended, and available as a kit from places such as www.ukmgparts.com

There is a plastic bleed screw in the top RH comer of the rad, accessed through the slam panel, these can fail and cause leaks. metal after market replacement screws are available.

2 steel coolant pipes running under the car are prone to corrosion, so keep a good eye on them.

Service history is also important, especially make sure the 60K/4 years service has been done as that's the biggy including a cam belt change.

Check the carpets for dampness which may indicate a leak, either around the hood/windows or from the heater intake if the passenger side footwell carpet is wet.

Wheel bearings, track rods ends, trailing arm bushes, shock bushes etc all wear but if the car has 12 months MOT these should be OK.
If the ride is harsh, it may be an indicator that the dampers need replacing. I changed mine at 50K.

Cracks in the plastic rear window and holes in the hood were it has rubbed on the frame are not uncommon.

5) Every 4 years or 60K miles, whichever is the sooner.

6) pretty normal on the TF. The amount does seem to vary from car to car, but there is not a lot you can do about it as the light units are not sealed.

I can recommend a trawl of this site as it covers a lot of common problems and fixes, though some are more specific to the F.
http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/

[Scarab]

Regarding point 6, I taped a tiny little silica gel bag in an inconspicuous place in my TF160's lights when they were getting filled with condensation.

You know the kind of things you get with a new pair of shoes. Open the bag, empty half of it out, fold it over and tape it up on the sides so as much of the bag as possible is exposed. It absorbs all the water, doesn't really heat up too much (certainly not going to cause any issues) and solves the problem.

Hope it helps.

Alex

[The Express Valeter]

Originally Posted by JimmyCoupe

Hi Everyone

I'm new to MG TF's but not new to MG rovers, I currently have a MG ZS 180 and have been a member on here for a while now but my other half has just recently become a very proud owner of a lovely MG TF 135 03 in bright red. It is a beautiful low mileage example but we did get it at a nice price due to a couple of very minor faults that I am having trouble finding the cause. If anyone can advise on any of the cars faults we would be very grateful.

1) Boot light is always on saying that the boot is open
2) Should the spare wheel in the front have a standard spacer like my MG ZS to fix it to the car or does it have a MG TF special spacer?
3) Very rare but sometimes the key won't turn in the ignition like the steering lock is still on even though the steer wheel can be turned, odd (found this fault after buying it)
4) What are the main faults to look for/ look out for with a MG TF 135?
5) When is the cambelt due, normally 60,000 on a rover a part from the V6 but the car is now 6-7 years old and has done 29,000 miles.
6) Condensation on the front head lights, is this normal? if not how can I stop it?

Many thanks and lots of happy sunny MG TF days :-).

Pop over to ur garage & see Ralph, he is pretty knowledeable on F's & TF's - 01634 388999 www.mgr-service.com